Black Diamond strongly recommends that the ATC Pilot be used with an HMS carabiner, like their GridLock, rather than a D-shaped ‘biner to ensure the greatest level of holding force.The ATC Pilot cannot be used in guide-mode.The ATC Pilot cannot be used for double-rope rappelling, which means this will not replace or serve as your go-to rappel device.If choosing to go for Black Diamond’s ATC Pilot, there are a few important points to note: The Pilot is also lighter.” Important factors to know Smart Alpine – Also considered an ‘assisted braking device’ – this device accepts half as well as single ropes. Multiple friction modes and grooved sides provide. We believe the Pilot to be well designed, more intuitive and easier to use. ATC Guide Belay Device: A versatile belay/rappel device with a guide-mode for bringing up 1 or 2 seconds. “The ATC Pilot is ‘geometry assisted braking device’ and the MegaJul is considered an ‘assisted braking device’. Its lighter than the Smart, more intuitive and easier to use than the Mega Jul. On their YouTube video page for the device, Black Diamond asserts that This assisted-braking tubular design has become a favorite for many climbers as a lightweight and safety-enhancing option for single-pitch belaying in the climbing gym or at the crag. The ATC Pilot from Black Diamond joins the ranks of other assisted-braking tubular designed belay devices, including the Mammut Smart, Edelrid Jul 2, and the Ergo from Salewa. If you feel like you’ve used or seen a similar belay device design, it’s because you have. It also costs considerably less: $44.95 instead of $150. After the belay device catches the climber, the belayer simply rotates the device to release on the rope for a gradual lower using their brake hand.īlack Diamond constructed the ATC Pilot with molded stainless steel for lasting durability and added the ergonomic and comfortable Grilamid material to offer ergonomic comfort and maintain its light weight.Īs a result of this simple structure, the ATC Pilot provides a light yet secure belaying option weighing a mere 86 grams (3 ounces), as compared to the 200 grams (7 ounces) of the GriGri +. Unlike a more complex device, like the extremely popular GriGri from Petzl, the geometry of this tubular design enables you to catch your climber without relying on any moving parts.
It is good enough to go unnoticed, which is actually high praise.The all-new ATC Pilot from Black Diamond presents climbers with a simple and reliable assisted-braking belay device for single-pitch climbs, both indoors and out. There isn't much more to say except for the fact that the device works as advertised, with no obvious faults to speak of.
But it is certainly nice to have should the need arise. Photo Chris Van Leuven The Pilot design looks like the handle of a hard-plastic pistol. In any case, the friction ridges still provide quite a bit of friction to the point that I prefer rappelling without using them in normal conditions. The Black Diamond ATC Pilot (foreground) racked on a harness with the Edelrid Mega Jul. Whereas the ATC-XP has been said to have ~3 times the friction of the plain ATC, the ATC-Guide is said to have ~2 times the friction. It has been noted that user feedback for the ATC-XP convinced Black Diamond to tone-down the friction ridges for the ATC-Guide. This classic design features a large surface area that dissipates heat when lowering or rappelling, and the smooth-handling geometry accommodates rope sizes from 7.7 mm to 11 mm. the Black Diamond ATC-XP Belay Device is a durable, versatile belay. Often copied but never equaled, the Black Diamond ATC provides lightweight and durable belaying and rappelling performance anytime, anywhere. This is applicable mostly for canyoneering, where single-stranded rappels on wet and thin (9mm or less) rope necessitates that level of friction. ATC-XP Belay/Rappel Device: Now 30 lighter than the original thanks to an updated. Note that all normal belay attention/precautions apply, but just that there is now a backup to normal belay.Ģ) The additional loops of aluminum functions as an effective heat sink, allowing this device to run cooler than comparable tube-style devices.ģ) The additional loop of aluminum is helpful for setting up a Z-rig rappel, which greatly increases friction. What this addition achieves is threefold:ġ) For belaying a second, the ATC-Guide can now be set-up to brake automatically, much like the Petzl Reverso/Reversino. What makes the ATC-Guide unique is the addition of two loops of aluminum.
In this respect it is very much like its predecessor, the BD ATC-XP, and innumerable other similar devices. The BD ATC-Guide is a tube-style belay/rappel device with friction ridges.
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